Category Archives: Travel

10 Ways You Know You’re a Local in Tajikistan

  1. You eat plov (aka osh) at least 4 times per week.
  2. You talk on the phone using a just-below-yell voice and often hold your phone out in front of your mouth rather than at your ear.
  3. You love sugar in your drinks and sweets at every meal.
  4. Your speech includes a mix of Russian, Tajik (and sometimes Uzbek) words.
  5. You avoid a cool breeze like the plague, for fear that it will give you the plague.
  6. You place small plants near your computer to take away the machine’s bad vibes.
  7. Dollars … Somoni … it’s all the same to you.
  8. Vodka = good.  Lots of vodka = better!
  9. You visit the ice cream stand at least once a day (oh wait is that just me?)
  10. You wear a full suit for all types of work, manual or otherwise.

3.5 Weeks

With only 3.5 weeks left in Tajikistan, reflection has begun.  Working and living in Tajikistan has been at once breathtaking and utterly bewildering.  I often feel like a fish out of water, unable to orient my mind, my body, and my senses to the culture, the history, the language, the traditions, and the paradigm and religious premise.  Tajikistan is possibly the most complicated place I have ever experienced.  Having lived here for 3 months I can honestly say, I remain only a visitor; I would assert that the transformation from visitor to local might never happen – Tajikistan is that complex.

In an effort to be brief, I have provided a few highlights of Tajik-goodness over the past 3 months.  Below are the ups and downs of living in Tajikistan, both frightening and unforgettable experiences. Read the rest of this entry

Buzkashi

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With Navruz comes Buzkashi, a game of everyone man for himself polo with a stuffed goat carcass.  All I can say is it is what it sounds like, and yes, everything you’re thinking is probably true.  The goat is killed a few days prior to the game, gutted and stuffed with salt and sand, and left to soak.  The end result is a ‘ball’ of sorts that weighs 50-60 kg.

Everyone then gathers with their horses and plays for hours/days, trying to get the goat into the goal (aka circle of straw at one end of the field).  Mostly men and boys attend this event, with the women making food in the refreshments area.

Words cannot describe so I have pictures (see above) and this link for you to enjoy.

Navruz & The Groundhog

How do you explain the significance of ridiculous holidays to someone who has no cultural background in what makes your community tick?

A few days ago my co-worker, Malohat, and I got into a conversation about holidays in Tajikistan and the US.  It started with her describing Navruz (Persian New Year) and the making of the ceremonial meal, Sumalak.  She explained that the holiday involves stones, wheat, tears, and a story about a Tajik woman who had 5 children but no way to feed them. Read the rest of this entry

Spitamen, Tajikistan

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